Buenos Aires

Rocky and I have been in Buenos Aires for a week and a half now. We've stayed in two hostels in different neighbourhoods to get a feel for different areas.

To cut to the chase, click on this link to see photos (Facebook account NOT necessary).

First we were in San Telmo staying at the Garden House Art Factory hostel -- www.artfactoryba.com.ar. We had a fantastic experience there because of the friendly people that we met from various places.

Actually, it was one of the best hostel experiences for both Rocky and I. Breakfast was placed at a low round table in the central room. It was easy to meet people that way and see who was coming and going. The hostel was also a bit chilly, so people gathered 'round the gas fireplace and chatted in the evenings.

The people we met were really great. There was a couple from Neuquen province in Argentina who were just up for a few days for a conference. They were super friendly and helpful in teaching us the Argentine ways of the asado (bbq), Castellano (their version of Spanish), and their exceedingly late hours for eating and going out. They were Alejandro and Faviana.

I met a gal from Montreal who gave me some tips for our stay in June/July there.

We had a great time with new friends, Neil and Joni. Joni is originally from Vancouver and Neil from London. They met traveling and now live in London but are moving back to Van in the next few weeks actually.

They shared stories of other travels, of their great time at a Buenos Aires soccer game, and also were great company at the Cafe Tortoni tango show and weekend stroll through the park in Palermo neighbourhood. We hope to see them again in Vancouver.

There were also two German guys traveling solo. They were really interesting.

One was bound for great things, we think, as he was only twenty but incredibly mature, interesting, was fluent in Spanish from a year's home stay in Costa Rica, and was taking a Spanish prep course to prepare him for studies in Economics at the University outside of Buenos Aires. Oh yeah, and he studied Latin in high school... nuff said.

The other German guy was hilariously funny as he talked about his travels all over the world this past year, of living in a tent in Africa for a month and eating goat brains because it was too dark to see what it was. He said his hosts there were so excited to bring 'meat' back from the town.

There was also an Aussie gal from Sydney named Alicia, who was sadly was having terrible luck in her first week of traveling alone for six months in South America.

Firstly, she mistakenly went the wrong way around the world. The ticket was cheap but she didn't realize that it went from Sydney to Kuala Lumpur to Cape Town to somewhere else to Buenos Aires. She said it took her 32 hours... yuck!

Then she left her Visa in an ATM and someone had already purchased something on it after an hour. Then her little wallet was stolen out of her purse. I think her spirits were a bit low when we hung out with her.

After five nights we left the Garden House because San Telmo was a bit of a sleepy area after dark. We were lured to the hip, bustling neighbourhood of Palermo Viejo. It could best be described as Main Street x Yaletown + a hint of Commercial Drive.

There are so many funky restaurants, awesome shopping, cool bars and an always busy plaza in Palermo Viejo. It has been a good switch from San Telmo even though we've been a bit lonely in this hostel that has been empty for most of the time. This one is called Giramondo Suites (sister hostel to Giramondo Youth hostel) -- hostelgiramondo.com.ar.

Carolina, our host, was great. The first day I bought a few bananas and four oranges and was charged 14 pesos (5 dollars CAD). I figured I had been ripped off and she concurred. She proceeded to drag me back down the block so that she could chew out the young shop keep for ripping off her patrons. She got my money back so I ended up paying the real price which ended up being one fifth of the original price.

After we got back to the hostel her face was flushed and she told me to feel her pulse. It was racing and she told me some Argentine people who are corrupt like that really make her blood boil! It was awesome!

Our favorite havens from the ubiquitous pizza, pasta and steaks have been Bar Uriarte, Bio Organic restaurant (absolutely the best salad of my life!!!) and Cumana.

We have also had some great steaks and pastas at Hermann's at Santa Fe and Armenia, La Dorita in Palermo Hollywood, and a local Parilla in San Telmo. Parilla means not only can you get choice cuts of steak, but also kidneys, tripe and intestines grilled to perfection. Parillas are everywhere!

It's funny when you travel how food becomes such an important focus. Without it, one's energy is sapped--and hey, I love food. Rocky chuckles because I love to have a running commentary going as I decide what I'm going to eat.

Highlights in Buenos Aires So Far

Tango!
We went with Jodi and Neil to a Tango Show at the historic Cafe Tortoni. I must say that I didn't really understand tango nor have an appreciation of it before this, but it really captivated me.



It was more like a theatre show, a short musical of sorts, but the dancing was really good and the music was hauntingly beautiful, not to mention the violin player herself. Rocky and I would both like to take some tango classes while we are here.

San Telmo Antique Fair
Lots of cool stuff and interesting people to see here. And of course more Tango!

Tango Dancers in San Telmo Antique Fair from Penny Rocky on Vimeo.

There was also a Guacho (Argentine rancher) who part of the show. He was kind of a hunk!

Gaucho at Cafe Tortoni from Penny Rocky on Vimeo.

Check out the photos for more details.

An Authentic Milonga (tango party)
One of our Buenos Aires Time Out suggestions for a Friday night milonga turned out to be a really excellent one.

I knew we were in the right place because two of the performers from our Tortoni tango show were there, one dancing on the crowded dance floor and the other--the according player--studied intently as the live tango band played for the dancing crowd.

The milonga was also taking place in the basement of the local Armenian Community Centre, so it was even more legit.

Recolata Cementario


Highlights wouldn't be complete without a mention of the beautiful and eerie Recoleta Cemetary.

Inside the crypts we could see caskets stacked on shelves and eerie little staircases leading down below the ground.

The cobwebs were so ancient. Some of the statues and tombstone message were really beautiful.

Many more photos of this here.